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Behind The Dish: Chef Gizzy On Sri Lankan Lamprais

Interwoven into the history and culture of Sri Lanka is lamprais, a dish that consists of a marriage of multiple elements, usually around seven to eight different parts. Literally translated to “pocket of rice”, this small packet of food itself is a vague reminder of history and a nod to the existence of the fast-disappearing Dutch Burgher community on the island.  

Here is Chef Gisela Alesbrook (Chef Gizzy) on why Sri Lankan lamprais is something she is introducing to her Hong Kong community: 

“It is part of my childhood; it is my history. My father was a Dutch Burgher and my mother Tamil. The Dutch Burgher community is shrinking on the island, but this is something that I share with this small community of Sri Lankans and I do not want this unique culinary creation to fade. For me it is comfort, it is nostalgia – it is home. 

Lamprais is an intensive, heavily time-consuming meal to prepare and was something we saved for special occasions. I grew up eating it and fondly remember preparing this dish alongside my mother years ago. 

Preparing lamprais requires love and labour. It is family work. It is too much for just one person because you must make all the dishes, then cool them all down and pack them in a banana leaf. Then you must steam them before they are ready to eat. If the whole family does not come together to make it, well it just won’t get done. 

It includes cooking rice in meat stock and making a special curry with a finely diced meat mix: chicken, beef, pork and lamb. Then there are the crispy fish cutlets, green banana dry curry, chilli paste with dried prawns, brinjal moju and the seeni sambol (caramalised onions). It is a perfect dish to enjoy right away, or it works well to freeze and save for a few months – an easy, ready-to-eat meal at any time and a true Sri Lankan comfort food. 

There are not many places in Sri Lanka that still make lamprais, and it is rarely made at home, but the Dutch Burgher Union is a place that houses our history, specialities and offers a community for those on the island. When Sri Lankans leave the island, they head over to the Dutch Burgher Union and they order 10 or 20 lamprais to freeze for their trip so they can bring this unique part of our culinary history with them. I did the same when I first came to Hong Kong!  

For so many of us, this is a dish of childhood, memory, and nostalgia. Over the last few years, I have had guests coming and asking for lamprais here in Hong Kong and I have been making them on request. It is such a deeply ingrained part of my community and a tradition that no matter where we go if there is lamprais to be found, we will want to enjoy it and to share in its experience. 

At Hotal Colombo, our food is about sharing. It is the same concept as a family and that is what we bring to our table. Lamprais is not on our usual menu, and it is a unique experience even in Sri Lanka, but I love this dish, it is part of my heritage, and I wanted to share it with my community here in Hong Kong. 

The most exciting part about Lamprais, is that when you sit at the table and unwrap that banana leaf, it is the aroma that hits your nose. All those ingredients working in harmony to make something delicious. That is my favourite part and I hope that guests feel the same.” 

Head Chef Gizzy, Hotal Colombo 

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Join Chef Gizzy at Hotal Colombo for Lamprais Night on 27 September here. 

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