The Amalfi Coast: How-To

Wander along the picture-perfect beachfront and pick up a pair of custom-made leather sandals before lazing on the pebbled beach. Snag an outdoor table for an early dinner at Le Tre Sorelle, deemed by locals to be the first restaurant in Positano. Start with a grilled seafood platter and order a pizza if you like, but save room for their hearty rigatoni with braised short ribs and sausage ragu. Wash everything down with a bottle (or two!) of Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso and dance to the Balkanic jazz band.

Rigatoni with Neapolitan Sauce at Le Tre Sorelle

Do not leave Positano without spending an afternoon at restaurant Da Adolfo. Their boat ferries guests to a private beach from the pier between 11am and 1pm, and once you’re there grab a sunlounger as they fill up quick. Tan, swim and refresh with a spritz, then head up to the restaurant for an ocean-fresh lunch. Order a bottle of Falanghina, a refreshing Italian white served in pitchers with the juiciest peaches. The fresh mozzarella grilled in aromatic lemon leaves, salt and pepper whole shrimp and grilled catch of the day are not to be missed. Then jump back on the Da Adolfo boat to Salone Bianca at Villa Tre Ville next door for sunset drinks.

Grilled Seafood at Da Adolfo

Hop on the Hydrofoil ferry the next day to Capri and have lunch at Fontelina, one of the most beautiful beach clubs in Italy. Reservations are a must, and if you are lucky enough to book a beach chair in advance you can lounge in the sun all afternoon, punctuated only by dips in the Mediterranean. Otherwise, have lunch at Da Giorgio where traditional island cuisine is created with the freshest ingredients, and their crispy veal Milanese beautifully encapsulates this. Rather than fighting for a cab, stroll into the tram station next to the restaurant and take the tram down to the pier to shop for delectable souvenirs, from colourful pastas to limoncello. A ferry departs from this pier to Conca del Sogno, another beach club in Nerano. The fresh raw seafood and fried baby squid with zucchini alone are worth the 30 minute trip.

Grilled Seafood at Da Giorgio

Veal Milanese at Da Giorgio

Make time to explore the commune of Anacapri, Capri’s mountainous region. The Monte Solaro chairlift offers breathtaking views of the island, and the Blue Grotto sea cave is best explored on a private boat in the morning to get a full tour of the island ahead of the throngs. Alternatively, Il Riccio is yet another beach club that is right by the Blue Grotto with stairs to the cave entrance. Il Riccio is stunning but beware of tourist-trap high prices. The decadent dessert room, however, makes amends for any ills.

Blue Grotto

Head back to Capri’s J.K. Place for sunset cocktails and dine under the lemon trees at Da Paolino, or rub shoulders with celebrities like Italian designer Valentino at the island’s hotspot, Ristorante Pizzeria Aurora. Dance the night away at Taverna Anema e Core until the early hours. Fit in some last minute luxury shopping on the streets of Capri the next day and end your trip on a sweet note at locals’ favourite Gelateria Buonocore before waving alla promissa to the Amalfi.

Gelato at Gelateria Buonocore in Capri

Caroline Li

Food Columnist at #legend Magazine, website coming soon at Hungry Pea.

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